MODECollective

MODECollective was created as a resource for young designers, students and fashion enthusiasts entering the professional fashion world.

The goal of this blog is to create an environment where questions, concerns, advice and fashion news and history can be shared in order to educate, mentor and showcase the talent that will lead the next generation of the fashion industry.



Monday, August 30, 2010

Where Have All the Tailors Gone?

Today many young people interested in fashion are interested in the possibility of fame, fortune and glamour. But what about the craftmanship, discipline and pride that the apparel industry was founded upon? The sad fact is that these positions are declining and fewer young people are interested in entering careers in tailoring, dress making, patterning and manufacturing.

There are many contributing factors to why the skilled artisans and craftsmen of the apparel industry, tailoring and manufacturing have declined.

1. The time it takes to become a master tailor or dressmaker is a very long process. It takes years of studying, working and apprenticeships. The length of time, patience and dedication is a turnoff for some.

2. Increased international competition with faster productivity and cheaper labor has driven manufacturers and consumers to go oversees in an effort to keep costs low. The consumer's interest in quality made by hand garments is declining as the low cost of mass produced garments has become more appealing.

3. Everyday fashion has become so casual that consumers have found less need to invest in fine tailored/constructed garments. Why wear a suit when you can get away with a polo and khakis? Why buy hand crafted quality product from the tailors in Italy, Saville Row or even here in the good ole USA?

3. The current work force throughout the world is getting older and there are fewer masters left to train a new generation to replace them.

4. Tailoring, dressmaking and pattern making will not make you rich and with the generations growing more interested in a quick buck these fields are not appealing. In addition the growing trend in the US is that trade work in general among the middle and upper middle classes are looked down upon and many times deters young people that grow up in this socio-economic class from considering a trade as a profession.

So with this trend growing throughout Europe, the US and even Saville Row what is the future for fashion and the apparel industry?

Given the trend and growth of technology, output and productivity has increased while reducing the need for employees. Tailors and dressmakers currently self employed or employed in the luxury sector should remain stable while the most troublesome sector will come from manufacturing. Given this trend, by 2018 there is anticipated to be a 34% reduction in sewing machine operators. Even leather and shoe workers and repairers are expected to decline 14% by 2018**. Despite the current decline in positions, as the aging population currently working in the manufacturing sector retire or leave, there will be many positions available given the lack of new talent training to take over.

**Percentages as quoted by the Bureau of Labor Statistics, The United States Department of Labor

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Why Work Retail if I Want a Job in Fashion?

Through my years of working in fashion there have been many times that young professionals and students starting out have scoffed at the idea of working retail at the store level. They do not understand the connection between working in retail and working in fashion which is pretty unbelievable since the two go hand in hand.

Although some may want to create art for art's sake most want to make money. Money is an integral part in supporting the continuance of your art is it not?

In addition to young designers, young marketing, merchandising, public relations professionals and students ask the same thing. Why would I have to work retail? And if you ask them for their 5 year plan it often times includes a corporate office and a luxury brand or a brand of their own. Now to be fair this is not everyone but it has been a growing majority that I have encountered over the past few years. I am not suggesting to the new generation of fashion professionals to not have big dreams, I support them but I also support achieving them intelligently and arming yourself with the strongest background and experience you can have to achieve your big dreams.

What information can you gain from working in retail or in a store?

For starters...

Who is the customer? Age, demographic, socioeconomic background
What are they looking for?
What are the shopping trends?
What are the fashion trends of the average consumer?
How do you reach them and appeal to their sensibilities?
How a retail business operates?
What support systems and positions need to be in place in order to be profitable?

These are just few of the questions that can be answered when working in retail. There is so much more to learn and it will make you a more informed, intelligent and well rounded fashion professional.

Some food for thought...

If you wish to design how do you decide who your audience is, what they are looking for and how to target and reach them? How do you know which cuts, styles and fabrics that targeted customer responds to? How do you strike that balance between incredible editorial appeal that gets you featured in fashion magazines and commercial appeal that will bring you money in the bank?

If you are considering fashion marketing and/or PR how do you know how to reach the audience of the brand you are working for? Who is that customer? What kind of events are most effective and have the highest return on your investment? What marketing and advertising strategies have the biggest impact on the front line when customers come to shop?

If you are a buyer how do you know what to buy? What silhouettes, what fabrics, what colors, what sizes? What prices is your customer looking for? When you are creating business strategies how do you know the best way to execute them on the store level? What is the best way to give product knowledge to the selling teams in the stores? What kind of product information do they need to meet the demands of the customer who is becoming more savvy and more informed?

Monday, August 23, 2010

Fashion Trivia Quiz

Click the below link to take a quick fashion quiz. How much do you know about some of the greatest modern fashion icons?

Fashion Trivia Quiz

Monday, August 16, 2010

How Do I Get Started?--Buying

How do you know if buying is the right job for you in the fashion industry?

First of all, I must share with you the two biggest misconceptions. When interviewing assistant buyers many times I ask what interests them in buying.  One of the top answers is "I love to shop so I want to do it full time." If this is your answer you will be very disappointed. My second question is usually, "Do you like math?" When the answer is "No, why?" That is when I quickly recommend they find another job within the fashion industry.

Truthfully, 90% of the time buying entails analyzing business, doing retail math and working in Excel. In order to know what to buy for the market(s) you are buying for you must know who the customer is, their shopping patterns, the prices they are willing to spend, the types of items they are looking for and their sizes. How do you learn this information?

1.Most importantly... spending time in the stores you are buying for so you can see first hand who the customer is and what they are looking for.
2. Market Analysis- Reviewing sales, running and analyzing reports
3. Feedback from stores and managers
4. Industry Trends
5. Shopping the competition

Buying is a great position for individuals who like a balance between the creative and the analytical. It challenges both sides of the brain.

Buying is not all numbers and Excel though it is mostly. The fun part is using what you have learned through your analysis to put together the most profitable assortments when buying the collection in a showroom. Fashion shows are also another plus and many times you are given some sort of clothing allowance or discount on clothing to look the part and represent the company you are working for. Despite these exciting benefits don't ever forget your goal as a buyer is to make money for the company and buy the right product in order to fully capitalize on sales and grow the business.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Employers and the New Generation

Often times candidates and students ask..."What are you looking for in an employee?"
This day and age the fundamentals of a good employee have been lost and are becoming more difficult to find especially in the US.

What challenges do employers face today?

  1. Growing sense of entitlement among new associates.
  2. Impatience.
  3. Unrealistic Expectations.
  4. Lack of Committment and Dedication.
It is correct to assume that you can do whatever you put your mind to; however, that does not mean that you will have it tomorrow. Hard work, time and dedication are needed to achieve your goals. I always recommend being fair to yourself and be fair to your employer. If a young professional has the unrealistic expectation of putting a time limit on forward progression and advancement they are setting themselves up for frustration and disappointment and the employer's patience is growing thin.

For example, an assistant came to me one time and said, "I have been in my position for a year and a half and I feel the time has come for me to be promoted. I want to be promoted within 6 months or I am finding another job." The mistake here is that the assistant has just threatened their employer, secondly they have put an unrealistic time frame on their growth and thirdly, their priorities are focused on a title rather than the skills they are learning and the strength of their development.

A general guideline is that it takes at least 1 to 2 years to fully understand the responsibilities of your position when you first start out. A second rule of thumb is that you are most successful and more prepared for the next step in your career if have developed to the point that you are performing at the level you wish to be promoted to.

Some advice:

Be dedicated and committed to your work. It's the little things that count. In order to get ahead you need to go above and beyond the average.

Attention to detail and accuracy. Double check and proof read your work. Sending out errors or incorrect information on a regular basis can tarnish your integrity.

Take responsibility for your actions. There is nothing worse for an employer than to hear long drawn out excuses of why things are not correct or why things were not completed in a timely fashion.

Show up and be on time. If you don't show up prepared and ready to go you miss out on opportunities. Tardiness is not acceptable. Consistent tardiness can many times result in being excused from your position.

Be patient and focus on your learning, growth and development. If this is your focus and you succeed you will reap the benefits.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this subject.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

How Has the Retail Industry Changed since 2008?

The world of retail and fashion has changed. The importance of understanding the shift in consumer consumption has become increasingly more important. So what are some are the biggest changes happening in the industry?

Customers are spending less. The consumer is looking for value with a minimal cost to their bottom line.

Customer Service. The customer is looking to be treated as an individual with a personalized shopping experience and distinctive customer service.

Novelty pieces that are not trendy. Customers are more hesitant to make purchases on items that cannot be worn season after season. Items that are too trendy have a limited window for the wearer so for clothing that meets this description are purchased in stores like H&M, Forever 21 and Zara where the customer perceives they are getting a better value for their trends. Quality pieces that are timeless and work with their current wardrobe are pieces that the customer is more willing to spend on.
Click here to view the latest industry news at Style.com

How Do I Get Started?

One of the first questions students and young professionals ask me is,  "how do you break into the industry?"

Many times students and professionals starting out have no idea what they want to do within the industry so my first question is--"What do you want to do? What interests you about the industry?" Once you have decided what peaks your interest and what makes you passionate about the industry you can then explore your options.

Research, Research, Research.... In order to be guided into the right direction you need to know what your options are. What types of positions exist? What are the responsibilities of that position? What skills are needed to be successful in that position?

So what are your concerns, questions and comments on how to get started in the world of fashion?